How Do You Identify A Problematic Dog?

Welcome to Daisy’s Rescue. We are all about helping humans and rescue groups learn useful tricks and tips on how to take care of and rescue dogs. Please feel free to leave comments and questions you may have for us. We are here for you. For your convenience we have added links to the products that we like to use, and or are featured here in the article. Use these links to find the product to purchase or to research.

Today’s session is about How do you identify a problematic dog.

Our guest blogger today is Mary Rose of Dogs World, where she is a Dog Care and Behavior Coach.

Make a list of all your dog’s problematic behaviours and what your thoughts and feelings are about them.
This will help you to become more aware and help you to achieve clarification about the problems you and your dog are facing and start to locate an identifiable pattern to the perceived problematic behaviours.
Follow these steps:-

A)      Identify your ambitions.
Write down next to each problem what your ambitions are to resolve the problem and what outcome you would like to achieve.
This is the key to beginning to adopt a more positive mindset and attitude that there is an achievable end goal in sight.

B)      Identify how health & behaviour can be linked.
List down all of your dogs medical history including and injuries, operations and prescribed medication your dog may have received including the dates of the last vaccinations and flea/and worm treatments.
Often changes in behaviour can occur after medication or treatments have been administered or can be linked to some pain or imbalance somewhere inside of your dog.

C)      Identify current diet & feeding patterns.
Make a list of all the foods your dog consumes including any human foods you feed it or pet treats from the pet shop.
Read the ingredient labels and begin to educate yourself on what these ingredients actually are as they often use technical names or proper names to disguise ingredients. (Like `derivatives` – means a copy of!)
Chances are when you learn what is in most pet foods you will begin to see why they are causing imbalances to your dog’s internal system.

D)      Identify patterns and triggers in your dog’s immediate environment.
Make a diary of when the problem behaviours occur and what is happening in the current environment when it happens.
Also note down what you were doing and feeling at the time: This will help you to identify common triggers and patterns to the behaviours your dog is showing and how you respond to them.

E)      Treat the cause, not the effect.
Problematic behaviour in animals usually stems from an underlying imbalance in the immune or nervous systems and these imbalances can be treated very effectively with natural diets and treatments.

F)      Learn how to communicate with your dog effectively.
Understand that your dog’s problematic behaviour can often be that they are trying to communicate to you that one or some of their needs are not being met.
They cannot speak or understand human language, (only pick up on the tonatality of your voice- the way you say it) they use various forms of behaviours & body language to communicate to you how they are feeling.

G)      Animals often mirror our own deep seated problems.
If you have a dog who is fearful and nervous, check into see what you are feeling nervous or fearful about in life.
If your dog is aggressive maybe you are dealing with aggression issues in your own life, either, with yourself, your family members or a work situation.
If your dog starts to urinate or defecate in your house then it could mean a change of diet is needed or that you are carrying deep seated sadness, guilt or grief. (Or: just marking territory in a new/ other house!)
Dog & Owner coaching deals with the owners’ thoughts, emotions and feelings and offers you ways to become a calm confident and natural leader that you dog will look up to and respect naturally.

Thank you Mary Rose for a very insightful article.

Mary Rose is a CiDBT Qualified Dog Behaviourist & Coach
for & on behalf of Just Dogs World
T: 01572 717001
M: 07976 767727
T: @JustDogsWorld

Thank you for joining us today at Daisy’s Rescue (, we hope that you enjoyed todays article and that you found it helpful. Please remember to visit and like our Face Book page at . You can email Daisy at . You can download Daisy’s Rescue podcasts at or


Hello, Nice To Meet You.

Welcome to Daisy’s Rescue. We are all about helping humans and rescue groups learn useful tricks and tips on how to take care of and rescue dogs. Please feel free to leave comments and questions you may have for us. We are here for you. For your convenience we have added links to the products that we like to use, and or are featured here in the article. Use these links to find the product to purchase or to research.

Today’s session is about how to introduce a new dog to your pack. We are going to talk about properly introducing a new dog to your pack, then we are going to make sure you keep your pack and your new dog safe while integrating your new dog in the pack.

Okay, you just adopted a new dog or you have a new foster, either way, you need to introduce the dog to your pack. The one thing you absolutely do not want to do is bring spike home and bring him inside to show your new pack. This would be a disaster.

What you need to do is make the introduction on neutral ground where both your pack and Spike will meet as equals. Take spike for a walk when you get him home. Have someone else take your pack out for a walk as well. While out on a walk, on neutral ground, let the dogs meet. Allow them to sniff each other and greet each other in a normal way. The best greeting is for dogs to greet each other by sniffing each other’s butts. This is non confrontational and socially acceptable (in the dog world).

Pack walk 7-2010 (1)

If Spike or your dogs bark at each other while approaching the greeting, immediately tell that dog NO! Then turn around and walk the other way. Continue to walk away until the dog stops barking. Then when the dog is relaxed, walk toward the other dog or dogs again. If the barking starts again, repeat the same process. This should only take a few types before the dogs understand it is not ok to bark when meeting other dogs.

You may want to keep the greeting short and continue walking separately and then meet up again in a few minutes making sure that the greetings stay pleasant. After the greeting take the leashes of your pack and walk them and spike together. Walk the pack with spike for a little bit to allow them to get used to each other.

Daisy and Gunner

When you get home make sure you enter your home first to establish and reinforce your position as alpha leader to both spike and your pack. Once in the house you want to make sure you are always with Spike when he is around your pack. You want to be extra observant, so you can stop any problems before they become a problem. You need to allow Spike to find his place within the pack, until that place is defined, Spike needs to be crated at night and crated anytime you are not home. This is a very important point, because the life of Spike and or the life of one of your pack could be saved by doing this. The last thing you want to do is go out for the day leaving all the dogs loose in your home only to come back and find one or more dogs severely injured or even dead because they got into a fight and no one was able to stop it.

It’s important to establish yourself as Alpha leader and establish Spikes place within the pack. When you feed your dogs, have them all sit and wait for you to place their food down. Then you have them “wait” until you say it is ok to eat. When you feed your dogs, make sure you feed them in order of their pack rank (unless you make them all wait until all the food is down, then you let them eat all at once), make sure Spike is fed last. Whenever you go through a door, make sure you go first and then allow Spike. You are the Alpha, so as a pack leader, you have the privilege of eating first and eating the prime pieces of food, you get to sit and lay on the softest and best places. Since you are the leader the rest of the pack follows, so therefore you must go first. Working with Spike and teaching him tricks is also a great way to help establish and reinforce your role as Alpha. One thing that you absolutely should not due is have Spike sleep in your bed. If you let Spike sleep in your bed as soon as he is brought into the house, you are elevating Spike to the level of your pack and to your level as Alpha leader. Spike needs to settle into the pack, establish his spot and then learn his way, before he can have special privileges.

Once Spike knows his position in the pack and sees you as the Alpha pack leader, you can slowly start giving Spike the privileges that the rest of the pack has. These can be, laying or sitting on the furniture, laying in bed while you are watching TV. The very last privilege should be, being allowed to sleep in bed.

The last thing that you want is Spike to challenge you for the Alpha position because you gave him bed privileges too soon.

We hope this helps you with introducing new members to your pack. We want every pack to be happy. Tell us your experiences, so that other can learn.

Thank you for joining us today at Daisy’s Rescue (, we hope that you enjoyed todays article and that you found it helpful. Please remember to visit and like our Face Book page at . You can email Daisy at .  You can download Daisy’s Rescue podcasts at or




Muffin’s Halo!

Welcome to Daisy’s Rescue. We are all about helping humans and rescue groups learn useful tricks and tips on how to take care of and rescue dogs. Please feel free to leave comments and questions you may have for us. We are here for you. For your convenience we have added links to the products that we like to use, and or are featured here in the article. Use these links to find the product to purchase or to research.

Today’s session is about Muffin’s Halo, a unique product for blind dogs.


Muffin’s Halo Guide for Blind Dogs ® is a custom designed product to guide blind/visually impaired dogs and safeguard them from bumping into walls and other objects. This NEW patented device is a great aid to help them become familiar with existing or new surroundings, quickly.

Muffin’s Halo Guide for Blind Dogs ® is lightweight, comfortable and a stylish easy fit with adjustable velcro straps. Its soft angel wings sit on the dog’s neck to protect their head and shoulder area, while the decorative halo is designed to protect them from bumping into walls and other objects. This device does not hinder a dog’s normal daily activity and makes them look like a precious angel.

Muffin's Halo 02

Muffin’s Halo Guide for Blind Dogs ® was invented out of the love and devotion for MUFFIN BORDEAUX, a 12 year old Toy Poodle who lost his sight last year due to cataracts. Muffin began bumping into walls, fell down the stairs and became depressed and immobile, as he attempted to transition. His mother Silvie Bordeaux was heartbroken and determined to find a solution for her beloved dog. After doing some extensive research, she realized there is a great need for products to assist blind dogs, so she created Muffin’s Halo and is now dedicated to assisting blind/visually impaired dogs and their caring owners.

My precious 12 year old toy poodle Muffin Bordeaux, went blind last year due to cataracts. I was devastated, since he kept bumping into walls and falling down the stairs. He became very depressed and was afraid to move around. I could not let him out of my sight and carried him around everywhere. I searched the internet extensively for solutions/assistance. That was when I realized that there is a great need for products to assist blind/visually impaired dogs, so I invented this device/guide, “Muffin’s Halo Guide For Blind Dogs ® “  that has changed his life, as well as mine. Muffin now knows his home again and can travel with me to any hotel or friend’s house and gets to familiarize any new surrounding, quickly. He just loves this aid and is back to his peppy confident self!  Muffin also loves all the attention he gets when I take him on walks, as he looks like a little angel. Most importantly, I can leave him at home for hours and know that he is safe.

While I was inventing this product, we discovered Muffin had a mass in his stomach. I consulted with multiple vets, changed his diet, and gave him daily iron supplements and medicine, hoping to reduce the mass. As a result, he was doing well and was more energetic.

During a follow up appointment to check on his mass, a certain Vet lacerated him internally by mistake, leaving Muffin dying on the operation table.  Muffin had to have excessive amounts of blood transfusions and emergency surgery that cost me an excessive amount of money, but most importantly, great emotional distress. The Vet told me I had to prepare for the worse and that Muffin would probably not make it through the night.  They feared his main artery was cut and that he could not survive this type of injury. I was petrified, devastated and in total disbelief.

As Muffin (who recently went blind and was traumatized in the Emergency Room with complete strangers) was in critical care fighting for his life, I was on my knees sobbing all night. I was surrounded by his bed, toys and clothes and pleaded to God to please save my precious dog. I promised in return, upon his recovery, Muffin and I would be of service and dedicate our lives to helping blind dogs.

My greatest prayer was answered and after many weeks of tender loving care, Muffin recovered and I have since worked on and developed “Muffin’s Halo Guide For Blind Dogs ®  to now make it available for other dogs facing this issue.  I was stunned to find out how many dogs are abandoned or put down because they go blind.  Muffin’s Halo can now save the lives of many dogs!  It no longer has to be painful for the dogs and their owners, as I have a great solution to help this transition.

Today, Muffin’s Halo, my patented guide for blind dogs that was custom designed and handcrafted in the USA is now on the market.  It is my greatest wish that we improve the lives of as many blind dogs as possible!

With much love,

Silvie and Muffin Bordeaux

Silvie Bordeaux is currently working on and developing a whole line of Blind Dog Products, specially designed to improve their quality of lives.

Contact for Muffin’s Halo:
Silvie Bordeaux

Thank you for joining us today at Daisy’s Rescue (, we hope that you enjoyed todays article and that you found it helpful. Please remember to visit and like our Face Book page at . You can email Daisy at .  You can download Daisy’s Rescue podcasts at or






What’s That Smell? How To Clean Those Accidents

Welcome to Daisy’s Rescue. We are all about helping owners and rescue groups to learn helpful tricks and tips on how to take care of your dog(s). We are here for you to help with useful information on all types of routine dog care. Please feel free to leave comments and questions you may have for us. For your convenience we have added links to the products that we like to use, here in the article for you to find them more easily.

Today’s session is about taking care of those accidents that happen from time to time.

We all want to have our dogs house broken, but from time to time our dogs have an accident. Whether we were away from the house too long, or maybe our dog is older and has a problem holding their bladder until we can take them out side, accidents do happen. We are going to look at what causes the smell and how we can clean up the mess. I will say that some breeds of dogs are much harder to train then others.

Having said all that, I wanted to get some good information that actually works on those stubborn, smelling dog pee stains. After spending some time on the web, I found that the same 4 ingredients kept coming up: Baking Soda, Vinegar, Dish Soap, and Hydrogen peroxide. So basically you have 3 options to clean those stains.

1. There is the “Home Made Pee Spray” method. 2. The commercially available enzyme / oxy clean pee spray. 3. The use of a carpet cleaning machine.

Here is the “Home Made Pee Spray” method.

You need to gather the following items.

1.  Baking Soda,  2. White Vinegar,  3. Dawn Dish Soap, 4. Hydrogen Peroxide Solution.

I also recommend  Pet Pads, instead of paper towels. In fact, using human “Chux” under pads may be cheaper.

Lets get down to business. Sometimes you can actually see the urine stain on the floor. Sometimes you can see invisible urine stains with a black light or ultraviolet light. I use a small pen light that is made by  Streamlight (police use the same type to check ID’s). There are other ultra violet lights on the market as well, that you can use, Portable 6 inch Blacklight is one of them. Now I have had some really smelly stains and not be able to see them either with the naked eye or the backlight. When that happens I resort back to my old stand by, my nose. I get right down on my hands and knees and sniff the carpet until I find the offensive area. Once I have found it, I attack it with one of the above methods. I really don’t have a favorite and I find that one doesn’t work universally, so I keep a few on hand.

We will start with the home made do it yourself stink remover.

1. Once you found the spot, if it is still wet, use the pee pad to remove the excess pee from the rug. I put the absorbent side down and I step on the spot. I move the pee pad slightly and step on the spot again. I do this until I can no longer see the spot being absorbed onto the pee pad. Don’t Move the pee pad yet!

2. Get the water and the vinegar together and mix 50/50. Now removes the pee pad so you know where the spot is. Spray the spot, almost soaking the spot. I let it sit for about 1 or 2 minutes and then I get a clean pee pad and soak up the water and vinegar mixture just like before. Leaving the pee pad over the spot so I can find it.

3. This step has two variations. Variation1. Wait until the spot is dry and then cover by sprinkling baking soda over the spot. Then mix 1/2 cup of hydrogen peroxide and 1 teaspoon of dish soap together and then pour over the baking soda and work in deep into the carpet and then let dry. Variation 2. Mix 1 cup of hydrogen peroxide and 1 teaspoon of dish soap together and pour over the spot, saturate the spot and then pour baking soda over the spot and work in deep into the carpet. Then let dry.

4. Once dry vacuum the powder and the stain and the smell should be history.

Commercially available Pee spray method.

1. Find the spot (using the same techniques as listed above. Eyes, UV light or nose).

2. Spray one of two types of sprays, I’m currently using OUT! Pet Stain and Odor Remover,    and  OUT! Oxygen Activated Pet Stain & Odor Remover. There is actually a third that I have not used yet, OUT! Orange Oxy Pet Stain and Odor Remover, 32 oz.Of course there are other brands that you can buy and use. If you have a favorite, leave a comment about it. Now you spray the spot until wet. Most will say allow the spot to stay wet for about 10 minutes, then remove the moisture with a pee pad and stepping on the stain until the pee pad stops absorbing the moisture.

3. Allow to dry. Smell and stain should be gone.

The last and most aggressive stain remover is the carpet cleaner!

You can rent one from the local super market or you can buy one. Since I have Dachshunds and I foster, I bought one. Actually I have bought 3, two broke and the third is relatively new. I started out with the BISSELL ProHeat 2X Healthy Home Full Sized Carpet Cleaner, 66Q4, it worked well and we had it for a few years and then we broke the plastic “dome” where the water is sucked up. It wasn’t a defect or a matter of wear, it was a matter of dropping and stepping on it. So then we bought the BISSELL DeepClean Lift-Off Full Sized Carpet Cleaner, 66E1, in concept this would be great if you cleaned a lot of cars or had a lot of steps, or even small stains, but I really didn’t think it worked as good as the previous Bissell when it was together and we ended up breaking the hand held wand when it was apart. The hose tore and made the unit unusable. So I went out and did some research and found the  Hoover MaxExtract 60 PressurePro Carpet Deep Cleaner, FH50220, so far I like this the best. It has a unique feature where it blows dry warm air over the carpet to dry it faster. When ever you use a carpet cleaner you need to use hot water and of course rug shampoo. Each maker has their brand of shampoos in different formulas. Choose the formula you think that will do the best job.

1. Locate the spot using the techniques above.

2. I like to pretreat the spot with either the vinegar and water mix or the commercial sprays.  Then I prepare the machine.

3. I like to go over the carpet about 4 times with the hot water/solution spraying the area. Then I go back over the area with just the machine suctioning up the water and dirt. I do this until I can’t see any more water being sucked up. I do my entire rug this way. I do small stains this way too with the hand held nozzle. After all is said and done, your rug should smell better and the stain should be gone.

Sometimes, the stains return even if the dog has not reused the spot. I’m not a carpet expert, but I have been told, that this is because the stain has soaked into the bottom of the carpet and or the carpet pad may need to be removed and or replaced.

I’m not sure why some pee stains glow under a UV light. I couldn’t find a definite answer on the web, but I’m going to go out on a limb and say it is because of the phosphorous content of the urine. The UV light makes the phosphorous glow, thats also why some white shirts and shoe laces glow as well. Below are three pee stains, two are invisible, but glow under UV light and the third is a visible stain that does not glow.

This is an invisible pee stain stain. Invisible Pee stain

This is the same stain under UV Light UV Pee Stain

This is a visible stain Visible Pee Stain

This is the same visible stain under UV light with no other lights on (no glow)Visible Pee Stain Under UV

This is an invisible stain Another Invisible Stain

This is the same stain under UV light (glow). Another Pee Stain under UV light


If you have a secret to how you remove stains, please let us know so we can share. We welcome all comments.

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Brush those Teeth, it’s for more than a Great Smile! …. Part 1 of 3

Welcome back to Daisy’s Rescue.  We are all about helping owners and rescue groups to learn helpful tricks and tips on how to take care of your dog(s). We are here for you to help with useful information on all types of routine dog care. Please feel free to leave comments and questions you may have for us. For your convenience we have added links to the products that we like to use, here in the article for you to find them more easily.

Today’s lesson is part one of a three part article on Doggie Dental Hygiene. Usually we stay to a single post articles, but we had so much information to tell you we are dividing it up into three posts. Most people don’t realize that taking care of your dogs teeth does a great deal more than just keep them clean.  Good hygiene in your dogs mouth prevents gingivitis and periodontitis, two major causes of tooth loss in dogs and a bunch of other seemingly unrelated illnesses. Believe it or not, bad teeth and dental disease can cause heart, kidney, and liver disease. This also happens to be true in humans too.  It is generally recognized that 80 to 85% of dogs over 4 years old  have some degree of dental disease. So, it is no surprise that the number one medical condition that Veterinarian’s see is dental disease. Oddly enough, dental disease is probably the easiest condition that can be prevented.

Before I go any further, I have to say, I’m not a dentist, veterinarian, canine nutritionist or sales rep. for any products that I mention in my blogs. I’m just conveying to you what I have learned over my experiences, in hope, that it will help you take good care of your dog. My dogs / pack are just as important to me as any other family members I have, and I personally do all I can to take the very best care of them.

Now before we can talk about dental disease, we need to know what it is. Dental disease is the build up of plaque, tartar, and bacteria on the teeth and gums. The gums become irritated, turn red and become inflamed or look swollen. The inflamed gums cause pain and will continue to get worsen over time. If left untreated by your vet they can eventually lead to missing teeth and jaw bone damage in your dog.

Every time a dog eats, the saliva, food, and bacteria form plaque. Plaque is a sticky substance that stays on the surface of teeth after eating. When plaque forms on the teeth, it will quickly start to turn hard into a calcium like substance. This hardened substance is known as tartar. When plaque and tartar form, the build-up starts to pull the gums away from the teeth and allow bacteria to go below the surface of the gum line and start to attack the teeth at the roots. This bacteria will also attack the bone of the jaw and even enter the blood, causing other organs to become diseased. Doggie Dental hygiene is no joke!

There are several reasons why dogs develop dental disease. One of them is simply genetics.  Certain dog breeds and even small breed dogs can often be predisposed to dental problems. Greyhounds are notorious for having bad teeth. Dachshunds are also known to have frequent dental disease. When dogs are rescued from puppy mills we often see them with advanced gingivitis & periodontal disease, this is in part because of the lack of fresh, clean water. When dogs are imprisoned in puppy mills, they often do not get enough water. The water that they do receive is usually from water droppers (like the kind used for mice and hamsters), this does not allow enough water to be taken into the mouth to wash the teeth like natural drinking. Many dogs will lose up to all of their teeth when they are rescued.

In order to identify if your dog has dental disease you have to know what to look for. Bad breath is a telltale sign that your dog has something going on inside that mouth. Other symptoms include, but are not limited too, red inflamed/puffy gums, bleeding gums, stained teeth, loose teeth, and hard yellowing deposits on the teeth particularly at the base. If you see your dog rubbing his nose on the ground after a meal, that could indicate that the dog has some mouth pain. The pain could be from having bad teeth or gum disease. Another cause of a dog rubbing his nose could be an allergy as well.

If unchecked dental disease will cause teeth to become loose and fall out, the jaw bone could become diseased. The bacteria could spread to the heart, kidneys, and liver. When we bring a Dachshund into rescue, if the teeth are bad, you can almost guarantee that dog will have a heart murmur. The good news is that once the teeth are cleaned and the gums heal, the heart murmur either goes away completely or at the very least lessens.

Now how do we prevent dental disease? It’s quite simple… brush those teeth! Brushing is the easiest way to clean the teeth and ensure a healthy dog. To provide the best possible out come for your dog, brush his teeth twice a day after each meal. Now, I know most of you are saying that’s crazy. Twice a day is the best scenario, if you can’t do that, once a day is ok, not optimal, but will do a reasonable job. Obviously, whatever you do to clean your dogs teeth is much better than doing nothing. When I get a new puppy or even a new foster dog regardless of the age, the first thing I do is start playing with their mouth and paws. By playing with their mouths and paws, I’m conditioning them to allow me to examine, brush their teeth, and also cut their toe nails.

There are many products out on the market that are designed to clean your dogs teeth. These products range from you doing nothing to the dog, to the actual brushing of teeth. Again, the more you do for your individual pet the better the results will ultimately be. Buyer beware! Every product claims to have clinic studies backing up the results that are supposed to come from the use of the product. I use common sense, if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is. Also, think about what the product claims and use common sense. The bottom line on dental products is this, you need to kill bacteria and remove physical particulate from the teeth surfaces.

One thing you need to know, if you spend some quality time and money now buying dental care products and brushing your pet’s teeth, you will save both money, as well as, pain and suffering of your dog later. The average cost of dental cleaning $ 300, my girl Duchess cost over $ 1,000 to take care of her dental disease.  We brought her into rescue and had her teeth cleaned. She had 9 teeth removed during her dental cleaning (and that was in addition to the 9 she was already missing due to lack of dental care), so in the end she had lost more than half her total teeth. (Duchess was a Dachshund) So the old cliche is all too true, a once of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Her one canine tooth that was pulled created a fistula (a hole in her gum that went into her sinus cavity. That hole had to be closed, the closure didn’t work at first, so she had to have a second surgery to get the hole repaired.  At this point, Duchess is 15 years old and has 18 teeth missing and we are working hard to save the others with daily teeth cleaning.

One of the first things we do when in dog rescue with the intake of a new foster dog, is to evaluate the teeth. They frequently need to see a veterinarian to be put on both pain meds and antibiotics to take care of the infected gums and to allow the dog to eat pain free. Sadly, it’s not at all uncommon to have the new foster animal on heart meds because of murmurs caused by the gum disease. Usually within a few weeks after the dental the heart murmur goes away or dissipate to a level were medicine is not needed.

Now what do we use to clean the dogs teeth? There are few different products, each one has its own unique advantages and I will explain them here. The products range from pouring liquid into water and allowing your dog to drink it, all the way to the tooth paste that you brush their teeth with. We will start with the easiest to use first.

PlaqueOff, Proden PlaqueOff Dental Care for DogsThis is an all natural seaweed powder, that is sprinkled into the food dish on top of their food to be ingested by your dog. The seaweed is supposed to have antibacterial properties that will kill the bad bacteria in the mouth that causes plaque and tartar. The manufacture claims that this will not only stop the development of plaque but remove existing plaque and tartar. I have used this product. I typically use this when I get a new dog in to foster. I have found that this powder softens the plaque and tartar making it easier for the plaque and tartar to be removed during dental cleaning. My senior girl, Duchess had bad, stinky breath and I used this product in addition to regular brushing and her breath didn’t get much better. In PlaqueOff’s defense Duchess had been living with really bad teeth that had gone untreated for a very long time. However, our dog, Daisy has used the Proden PlaqueOff and the tartar build-up softened right up, enough so that I was able to scrap her teeth and clean most of the heavy plaque off myself. No veterinarian needed.


Daisy getting gel applied to her teeth.
Daisy getting gel applied to her teeth.

There are also many different products that come in a liquid that you can buy and add to the water that your dog drinks and it is supposed to stop or at least inhibit the build-up of new plaque and tartar to your dogs teeth, some even claim they clean the teeth of existing plaque and tartar. These products aim to change the PH value in your dogs mouth. Making the mouth environment more acidic to kill/ prevent more bacteria. What you need to remember is that the bacteria is only part of the equation here. You still have the accumulation of solid food particles. While killing bacteria helps, it isn’t the end all be all. Be careful choosing a liquid product, look for certain ingredients like, chlorhexidine gluconate or Cetylpyridinium Chloride which are antiseptics used to kill the bacteria.  Tropiclean Fresh Breath Plaque Remover Pet Water Additive, uses Cetylpyridinium Chloride as an antiseptic. Nylabone Advanced Oral Care Liquid Tartar Remover, changes the PH in the dogs mouth to create an environment that is harder for bacteria to survive. I have not used this product, so I’m not endorsing it, but have it here as an example of other types of water additives. I do use Natural Chemistry Dental Cleanse Oral Hygiene Treatment for Dogs, I like it because it does not contain sweeteners and other unsavory ingredients such as dyes.

This is the end of part one. Next week part two will be posted. Part two is going to be about gels and paste. If you have any questions please leave a comment and we will get back to you as soon as possible.



Follow The Leader, A quick lesson in dog walking.

Welcome to Daisy’s rescue, Today our topic is dog walking. We see a lot of people trying to walk their dogs, and sometimes we wonder who is walking whom. Denise Lynn is one of our guest writers and she will discuss how to easily walk your dog.


When it comes to your dog the old cliché that a “good dog is a tired dog” may indeed be an old statement but is still unanimously true. Sadly, few pet owners show any real ability to walk their dogs correctly these days. This is especially disappointing because it is such a key component to excellent overall pet behavior. Let’s face it, we all dread walking past the owners who are out on the sidewalk with their arms at full extension, shoulder rolled forward and total lack of control over their animal. Being faced with a bad mannered or overly exuberant dog is never something anyone looks forward to. And this is precisely the reason I find myself biting my tongue and uttering a simple polite greeting, as I cross to the other side of the street, allowing chaos to continue on its way without me. This behavior is easily corrected however, and this essay can tell you the right techniques to curb your dog on a walk and avoid the need for a chiropractor afterwards. With the right equipment, posture, and consistency anyone can learn to correctly walk their dog.

“Exercise for your dog is every bit as important as it is for you” (Huntington). Let’s start by getting the right equipment for your particular breed. Whether you’re the owner of a large or small dog the use of a properly fitted collar, leash, or harness for your breed size is all you need to make your walks comfortable and enjoyable for both of you. A dog’s collar should be soft, flexible and worn at all times providing two fingers width of room underneath it for the dog’s ease of movement. The correct collar should also include contact information for the owner in case of unintended separation at the dog park. If you are a small dog owner a harness will be your next purchase. Harnesses hold the dog by the chest region and distribute tension removing the danger of larynx collapse if either of you pull the leash too hard. Leashes should be of the correct sturdiness for your individual dog’s size. A small dog needs a light leash with a longer length were as, a big dog needs something stronger and shorter after all he is taller.

Many people use the wrong equipment which can immediately doom your walk to failure. Using a choke chain or pronged collar is common practice to some people to give correction for bad behavior but, this will only illicit a negative response from your dog while also making him fear you. Painful choking is still just that, painful! Now ask yourself, why your dog would view walking as something they want to do if it’s constantly a pain in their neck? Likewise, a large heavy leash that isn’t absolutely necessary to secure him becomes an uncomfortable addition for any dog. These are just a few examples of how to make walks not only unpleasant and disagreeable for your pet, and also in some cases agonizing.

When it comes to walking your dog, a positive attitude and good body posture will take you far. Remember to exude an affirmative demeanor whenever you walk out the front door together. Keep your head held high and your shoulders back throughout your walk. Assign your pet his place at your side by shortening the leash, thus allowing him just enough room to walk confidently beside you. Then slacken the leash to a soft, relaxed tension and remember to be the leader whenever you walk. When you assert a leadership posture your dog will automatically follow. This also helps him recognize that he must always follow you and not the other way around. Continuously be the first to step into or out of any doorway and Spike will quickly come to understand the proper chain of command both on the walk and inside your household.

Let’s flash back to the vision we had earlier of the dog dragging the owner down the street by his lead. Not only will you need a chiropractor after not exuding the leadership role, you may also need Band-Aid’s. By permitting your dog to lead he will assume he is the boss and will take over the role whole heartedly, dragging you threw bushes or across busy streets. If you allow him the full length of leash he will use it to his advantage and to hang you both with it. Let’s face it, “Pulling on the leash and dragging the dog does not work. It only chokes the dog and prompts it to pull harder to get away from the choking” (Houck). So always start out on the right foot to avoid these obvious pitfalls.

The best tool at your command when walking your dog is the use of positive reinforcement for all good behaviors he exhibits. This simply put means to catch your dog doing the good behaviors and praise him for it. Said with a smile in your voice, praise alone will bring many happy returns. For example, if when you’re out walking, you happen upon another owner and their dog and Spike stays his course beside you without hesitation, make sure he knows he was a good dog, “Good boy!” In contrast, “A lot of people think hitting and yelling at a dog is training….But hitting and yelling is abuse and immediately removes the trust between a dog and its owner. Aggression begets aggression” (Houck). All of which will only serve to make your dog fearful and anxious. The ultimate goal of dog walking is a pup that is tired and relaxed so that you can both take a nap on the sofa together.

It’s also very important to always remain consistent with the rules, be sure to adhere to them each and every time you walk together. If you do, your dog will know exactly what is expected of him and perform better overall. Continuously respond to any negative behavior quickly, lead him back on track, and then praise him for a job well done. Vacillating back and forth with only the occasional correction will only confuse your pup and lead him to making bad behavior choices. This will facilitate the need for a lot more negative corrections when the goal is to accentuate the positive at every opportunity.

Nobody wants an over excited, wound up companion that chews furniture and knocks them over upon their arrival home. The addition of a regular walk, using the right equipment, and correct body posture, as well as, consistent reinforcement will result in a well-trained and relaxed dog. You both will be getting great exercise and increasing the bond between you. Good boy, Spike!

By Denise Lynn

Works Cited

Huntington, Ann. “Tips on how to Help Dog Get Exercise.” Toronto Star Dec 05 1991: F.6. OxResearch; ProQuest Central; ProQuest Health Management. 31 Mar. 2012.

Houck, Jeff. “Stay! Sit! Read! and Learn how to Train Your Dog.” Palm Beach Post Jan 18 1999: 1.D. OxResearch; ProQuest Central; ProQuest Health Management. 31 Mar. 2012.