First off I just want to say and warn you, that I’m a dog food snob! I’m also not a veterinarian or a nutritionist, I’ve just done some research and I’m explaining my experiences and what has worked for me. I feed my dog the best food I can find. Having said that, I have a old girl who is about 13 to 15 years old, we have had her for about 2 years and she has arthritis pretty bad. Her right rear leg is stiff and she has a cute hobble that does not slow her down! When we take her out for a walk she runs the whole way. She is one tough old lady. She went down in her back about a year ago and we treated her with steroids and muscle relaxers and limited activity. It should have been crate rest but, Duchess did not want any part of crate rest, limited, area sequestering, nothing. So, rather than having her cause herself more injury, we just attempted to keep her quiet.
After she got over the back problem, we decided to start treating her arthritis. I went to Pet Smart and bought some GNC pet vitamins on sale for half off, they were the Senior dog vitamins and senior dog chondroitin and glucosamine. I also bought her GNC Triple strength fish oil that has 1000mg of omega 3’s. Now Duchess is 15 pounds, so 1000mg is a good dose. Even at 1/2 price they were still pretty expensive. Duchess improved slightly, but not enough to say it was working. Then my veterinarian started to offer cold laser therapy. We started Duchess on the laser and we saw marked improvement. The laser works like this: The laser is a light that penetrates the skins and stimulates the deep tissue. By stimulating the tissue, blood flow increases to that area and inflammation and pain is decreased. We were told that it would take up to 3 treatments before you see results, they weren’t lying. Duchess actually became worse over the first 3 treatments and then on the fourth, became markedly better. She was able to move easier and actually stood up on her hind legs.
After we started with the laser treatments, Denise learned (in nutrition class), that flax seed has a lot of omega 3 oil that the body can actually use. We bought a 1 pound box of Organic flax seed and we now feed Duchess 1 teaspoon of flax seed with each meal. She is much better, in fact she improve more with the flax seed then the fish oil and laser combined.
We still get laser treatments for Duchess in addition to the flax seed. I also feed her Orijin dry dog food the puppy variety. I like the puppy , because it has more chondroitin and glucosamine in it then the other varieties of Orijen. While this isn’t a dog food post, but I will give you some info on this food. I feel that Orijen is the best dry dog food on the market. It is grain free and filler free. This is a very high protein food that has multiple sources of protein. I haven’t found another dry food that is on the same level as Orijen.
I hope this helps you.
Just a disclaimer here. I am not a veterinarian or nutritionist, this is what I do, before changing your food or adding supplements, please consult your veterinarian and or nutritionist. I share things that work for me and they may not work for you, it is up to you to use your judgement on deciding to try new things.
I talked about the crates and a couple other must have items needed for transports, but I did not go in depth. Here I want to get a little more detailed. If you have nothing else on a transport, you need three things, one is a slip leash. This is very important, you need to be able to secure the dog so he does not get away. The second item you must have, is a crate or kennel. The third, pee pads. There are so many types of leashes out there. They are made from many different types of materials, there are different styles and configurations, but for transport, the best is a simple slip leash. I will say that you should not, actually do not bring choke collars or shock collars or the prong collars. Choke collars are designed to choke, prong collars are designed to inflict pain on the dogs neck, shock collars are designed to shock the dog and cause pain. I never recommend any of these, unless there is a life or death problem a dog has. There is no place for these in rescue transport. Keep in mind (regardless of your philosophy on those collars), you are going to be in the company of people who love dogs, if nothing else, those collars will not go over well. Most dogs coming from a shelter have nothing, so a slip leash is perfect. You just slip it over the dogs head and it will tighten as necessary. Even if the dog has a collar, do not trust it, you do not know where that collar came from, how old it is, what condition it is in. Remember. you do not want to be the one to have to call the transport coordinator and say you lost the dog! This is one of the areas where we can keep it simple, a few slip leashes of different sizes will be you best friends during a transport. Like I said always use your leash, because you know where yours has been. Also having your leash will making transferring the dog safe. You keep the dog on your leash until the other rescuer has his leash on the dog, now the dog is always secure with no chance to escape. There is a whole multitude of kennel sizes styles and types. The three main types are the plastic “airline approved” kennels, soft sided kennels (nylon cloth with a frame for support), and wire mesh kennels. I prefer the plastic kennels over the metal wire ones for transport. I do not recommend the soft kennels at all. These kennels will not hold a dog, they can be chewed through and the dog can escape. I find the plastic kennels are a little more compact and easier to put in the car. Kennels can be expensive. I’m always looking out for kennels at yard sales and flea markets. Sometimes you can get lucky and the person holding the sale will give you the crate / kennel if you tell them you do dog rescue. I recently took a dog in from an owner surrender and a kennel came with the dog. It is a collapsible kennel from Nylabone (the chew toy maker). It is the coolest crate. It is nice and sturdy and is folds down into a flat shape. Storing these takes a lot less room then the non folding type. The one I have an older one that has a flat top. The new ones are arched and that does not lend it’s self to being stacked if you have a big transport, but not many people use mini vans, where you can stake crates two high. I found a few other collapsible kennels while doing research for this article. Care eze has a collapsible carrier with a flat top, but I have not personally used one, but looks like it is along the lines of the Nylabone. The same with this Suncast Pet Carrier. The nice thing about these crates is that they do fold flat for easy storage and that will give you more room, if the crate is not needed, especially in a vehicle during a transport. Petmate crates are by far the most popular. They are easy to clean, every store sells them and they work fine. They just don’t fold flat. They do come apart and will store inside it’s self and that will reduce the height by half. A very important note about crates, if you use one that has clips that hold the two halves together, you MUST reinforce the clips with nylon wire ties. The clips have been known to unclip and then you animal inside can get away. By “wire tying” the top and bottom together, you insure that your precious cargo makes it to the destination. One of the great things about any of these plastic crates, is ease of disinfection. After each transport you need to wash the crate with soap and water, Dawn dish soap works great (to get any solid dirt and crud out of the crate), then disinfect the crate by wiping it down with either a bleach solution or disinfecting wipes. You can even use a spray if you wipe the crate down to distribute the liquid. It is very important for the health of the dogs you are transporting and the health of our own dog to keep your equipment clean and sanitary. During the transport article, I talked about protecting our vehicle with pee pads. Lets talk about pee pads now. There are so many brands and types of pee pads on the market now. I typically used the disposable pads for at home and as extra pads in case there is an accident during transport. I use reusable bed pads for in my vehicles under the blanket. Invacare makes a nice size reusable pad. While researching for this article I also found Ezwhelp reusable whelping pads that look like they are very similar to my bed pads and they come in different sizes and look to be a little cheaper. The first time you have a dog or puppy pee or worse, on your car seat, you will be thanking me, because you have our seats covered. I put links to the stuff I recommend to make it easier for you to find the products, without having to search local stores or search the Internet and hoping you found what I was talking about. My personal ethics, only allow me to link products that I use, would use or have used and that I would recommend to my own family or friends. This is important to me that you know where I am coming from. This web site is dedicated to helping you, help dogs. If I can make that a little easier for you by showing you where you can get the stuff I like, use and talk about, then I’m doing my job. At the end of the day: IT’S ALL ABOUT THE DOGS!
Hello, today we are going to talk about dog treats. It seems that every few weeks anymore, you hear that dog treats made in China are being recalled again! The news blasts that so many dogs have died from this latest batch of bad Chinese treats. I refuse to buy any dog food or treats from China. So I recommend that you read the label on any treats you buy. I’ve noticed a growth in “all natural” treats made by small companies in the USA. This is great, because let’s face it, most typical treats are no more than junk food for dogs. Which is why I am writing this today.
I typically feed my dogs fresh or frozen green beans, fresh baby carrots or fresh raw sweet potato slices as treats. These are high quality, low calorie, nutritious treats and I don’t have to worry about my dogs getting fat. Until recently I would still go out and buy commercial “healthy” treats that were typically dehydrated chicken and something. Of course my dogs love these. Problem is the cost! A bag of 2 to 3 ounces of dehydrated chicken is around $6 and you only get a few pieces. WOW! I looked around different stores and I found that you can not buy any quality food or treats for your dog in supermarket food stores or discount stores. The two major chains of pet stores, Pet Smart and Pet Co, while they have a much higher quality of food and treats, they still are not the best quality. I found that Pet Value and local private pet food stores sell the best quality dog food and treats.
Let’s look at Purina’s “Beggin’ strips”, The Purina website has “made with real beacon” as the ingredients. I “googled Beggin Strips ingredients” and Wikipedia has a list. Each treat is about 30 calories (my Tweeny Dachshunds require 250cal per day), and contain a ton of grain. Incase you did not know, dogs don’t ingest grains very well, they digest corn to well either. Some of the most common allergies in dogs is corn and grains. The main ingredients in “Beggin Strips” are; corn, corn gluten meal, soybean meal and wheat flour, this is in addition to food coloring and dyes. There are also preservatives in the treats.
So, I started buying the dehydrated treats and I would cringe at the price, so I decided to invest in a dehydrator, I figured that with the amount of money I’m spending on treats, I could easily recoup the cost of the dehydrator. So I did some research and I shopped around and I found a dehydrator that I liked. I bought a Nesco American Harvest FD-61 Snackmaster Encore Dehydrator and Jerky Maker (the FD75A is the same dehydrator with a 700 watt heater). Let me tell you what I learned when researching dehydrators. Not all of them are the same. I bought my dehydrator because it has a fan in addition to the heating element, the fan blows the hot air around and over the food, causing it to dry out faster. Some dehydrators just have the heating element. So it is like putting French fries under the hot lamp and waiting days for them to dry out. My dehydrator takes hours to dehydrate food, so I can make more food in less time. My dehydrator is also adjustable. I can set the temperature according to which type of food I’m drying. Some other dehydrators are set at one temp. The NESCO is also expandable (use tray Nesco LT-2SG Add-A-Tray for FD-61/FD-61WHC/FD-75A and FD-75PR Dehydrators, Set of 2 , fits both dehydrators), meaning that it comes with 4 drying trays, but I can buy up to 8 more for a total of 12 trays. If I’m making a big batch of treats, I can use 8 trays, if I’m making a small batch, I use 4 trays. The drying time varies with what I’m making. Sweet potatoes and fruit takes about 6 hours, meat takes 12 at a higher temp.
It is very simple to make treats. The easiest and fastest way is to take a sweet potato and wash it, then slice it like lunch meat into discs. If the discs are thin, you get sweet potato chips. Put the discs in the trays, they can touch but not over lay on each other. Fill the trays up and turn on the dehydrator and come back in 6 to 8 hours. I experiment and I found that if you slice the sweet potato and then drop the slices in boiling water for a few minutes (2-3), the color enhances to a bright orange and the treats come out a little more chewier. Once boiled, put the sweet potato in the trays and dry for the same amount of time 6 to 8 hours.
For chicken treats, I buy chicken breast, rinse and slice into strips. I put the strips onto a baking pan and I bake them at 200 to 300 degrees for 5 minutes to kill and bacteria, then I put them into the drying tray. I turn the temp up to max and I dry for about 8 to 12 hours. I do the same with beef and pork, but you don’t have to precook them, as they don’t have the same level of bacteria. If you want to get fancy, you can wrap the meat around a piece of sweet potato or banana, or carrot and dry them together to get a nice combo treat.
These treats are very nice, good quality treats, you know where they came from and what is in them. But, you need to remember, the meat treats have more calories, these will cause you dog to become overweight if you feed too many to your 4 legged friends.
I haven’t made any yet myself, but there is a gun you can buy, it looks like a cookie press, except the nozzle is bigger. What you do is puree the chicken, sweet potato and anything else you want in your treat. Put the chicken, sweet potato into a blender and puree until it is a paste, add water if needed, then put the paste into the press and press the paste out on to a tray and dry. Now you have shaped treats.
Because, the treats are dried they stay fresh for a pretty long time. So you can make a nice batch and not have to worry about making another for a few weeks. Enjoy making your dogs health and wholesome treats. Your dogs will love them. Daisy
Welcome to Daisy’s Rescue. We are all about helping people and rescue groups learn tricks and tips on how to take care of and rescue dogs. Please feel free to leave comments and questions you may have for us. We are here for you. For your convenience we have added links to the products that we like to use, and or are talking about here in the article. Use these links to find the product for purchase or to do more research on your own.
Today’s session is about Getting ready for the transport
OK, you got the email saying there are dogs needing transport. You signed up for a leg. You checked the map, GPS, map program in your phone, and you know where you are going, where you are meeting and where you are going from there (don’t laugh, I’ve been on transports where I’ve been called or asked how to get to the next stop, because nobody takes the time to plan ahead).
Before we get to far along, let’s back up just a few seconds. It is important to know who you are working with. I work with one single breed rescue, who is very organized and the dogs they transport come with; a crate, collar and tags, harness, leash, food, meds (if the dog needs them), blanket and bed, toys bowls and records. I know that when transporting with this group everything is done and it will be easy. Mostly because these dogs are coming from a foster home and going to their forever home.
I work with a few other groups and the dogs are coming from shelters and going to foster homes, these dogs have nothing. Records only and maybe a collar if the shelter had an extra one. Many are being saved from death, and are coming from high kill, no adoption shelters. I hate using the word shelter, when it comes to facilities that kill dogs. To me “shelter” means “a place of protection, a place where you can go and be safe”. Not a guaranteed death sentence, where you are going to be murdered.
Ok, so now we skip back to where we started. You are excited and ready to get the transport going. Time to prepare the car first. I have a bunch of old hospital towels and blankets (hospitals, typically don’t use linen with other hospital’s names on them, so they put those aside) and pee pads or “chux” if you are using the human version. I cover the back seat with the pee pads. I then drape a blanket over the seat and back and make a nice seat cover. I also pee pad the floor. If I’m driving alone, I will do the passenger front seat. I learned from one rescuer, she goes to the dollar store and buys vinyl shower curtains. She uses these under the pee pads as extra protections from unexpected leaks. Make sure you have water and a bowl, the dogs will be thirsty and maybe dehydrated from the travel. Now pack your transport bag and lets get ready to travel.
I have a gym bag that is full of supplies. My gym bag has collars of different sizes, leashes of different sizes and length, as well as a few “slip leashes”. Paper towels, extra blankets, extra towels, extra pee pads (enough to recover my seats if need be). A container of Clorox wipes, water and water bowl. A few healthy treats are good to have as well. A muzzle is good to have, again a few different sizes, a seat belt restraint is also good. to have. While not in my gym bag, but still important, the crate. Some times crates, it depends on how many dogs are being transported.
Before we get on the road, make sure you have a map, directions, or map app for your phone and a GPS. Make sure you have the contact info of the driver you are meeting, the driver you are going to hand off the dog too and the transport coordinator. Make a quick check of the car to make sure you are all ready and prepped. Lets go!
You want to get to the meeting place a little early, that’s incase the transport is running fast (which usually never happens), and you can be ready to accept the dog without rushing. When you rush, you make mistakes and you forget stuff. Even if the transport is running late, take your time, your responsibility is to the dog! remember; It’s all about the dog! When you meet the transporter, introduce yourself and make sure that this is the correct person and the correct dog. Often when there are large transports, there will be multiple drivers. You want to make sure you have the right person and dog. Next get the paperwork and the dogs belongings and move them into your car. Make sure you ask how the dog was from the previous driver. It is very good to know if the dog is an escape artist, or doesn’t like travelling or falls asleep as soon as the car starts moving. Make sure the dog has a collar and leash or a slip leash on before attempting to remove the dog from the car. Once out of the car, make sure to hold the leash tight (don’t laugh or think, I’m being condescending), you don’t want to be the one to call the transport coordinator and say you lost the dog, or the dog got loose and then got hurt or killed. Take the dog for a short walk around the area. Make sure you give him enough time to go potty. Offer him some water and then put him in your crate, back seat or where you plan on having him while you are traveling. You will see all kinds of ways people transport dogs, I’m going to teach you the correct way. Ideally, the dog should be restrained while you are driving, the reasons are many: you don’t want the dog to interfere with your driving, you don’t want two or more dogs fighting in your car while driving. You don’t want the dog to escape from your car when you open the door.
You can restrain your dog a few ways. The crate is the best, it protects you and the dog by creating a barrier. A seat belt harness is another good way to secure the dog. Many states are now requiring dogs to be secured while driving. If the dog is small you can use a booster seat that the dog sits in and is secured too.
So load the dog and away we go! Some people like to play music during the travel, if you do, please keep it low and relatively light, No heavy bass rap etc. Make sure you contact the transport coordinator and let them know that you are on your way. You may want to contact the person you are going to meet and let them know you will be meeting them.
When you arrive, greet the next driver make sure they are the correct one and give a quick report on the dog. Hand over the paperwork, and dog’s belongings. Make sure the dog has a leash on and bring the dog over to the new driver. Make sure the new drive is ok and has everything done and then call the transport coordinator while you are heading home.
Once home, it’s time to clean up your car. Regardless of weather the dog had an accident in the car or not, you need to remove everything and wash it with bleach. Throw out the pee pads unless they are the reusable type, then wash them. Wipe down the cars plastic surfaces with the Clorox wipes. Clean the water bowl, and the crate. Disinfect everything. When you are going into your house, change your clothes and wash them as well. Don’t let your dogs sniff your clothes. Get ready for the next transport by resupplying your bag if you used anything.
Dogs, like people are susceptible to diseases. Like children, dogs are very social and they pass disease by sniffing each other, drinking from the same bowls, sniffing and lick pee and poo and just plain coming in contact with surface areas that an infected dog has touched. Some of the disease include but are not limited too: Lepto, bordetella , or kennel cough, Influenza, para-influenza and parvo. You really do not want your dogs to get sick because you were helping out another dog.
A special note for transporting puppies. Puppies should be kept away from all other dogs, unless they are part of a litter. Wash your hands in between handling puppies from different litters. Puppies do not have a fully matured immune system, this is why they are basically quarantined. Puppies do not touch the ground during the transport. Puppies need to have a separate water bowl and they need to be crated. The puppies need to be allowed to potty in the crate and that means you may need to clean the crate and the puppies. Make sure you observe the puppies close, if one shows signs of being ill, you will have to separate the puppy from the others. I’m not talking car sick, I mean weepy eyes, cough, lethargic, diarrhea, dull eyes, this puppy needs to be separated. It is probably already to late, but we should at least try to keep the illness from spreading.
Be careful when handling the dogs, I can’t stress enough, these dogs are tired, stressed, scared, confused and they don’t understand what is going on.
If you do everything as listed above, your transport should be nice, relaxed and easy.
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This is Charlie Moe the voice of Daisy’s Rescue thanking you for rescuing and helping dogs.
So you want to rescue dogs, huh? The first thing you need to do is ask youself why? If you are looking to help dogs for any other reason, then to make a dogs life better, then please find another hobby. Make no mistakes; dog rescue is ALL about the DOGS! My stock response to anyone who ask’s about why I rescue, is, “it’s all about the dogs”! I look at rescue like this; no matter how inconvenient it is for me to help a dog, when one needs to be helped, what I go through is nothing compared to what is happening to the dog at that moment. One thing is true and constant, you will be called upon to rescue a dog in need, at the most inconvenient time you can think of! So, what do you do? You go get that dog, that’s what you do! Why? Because that dog needs you! Even if you do not have the time, the room, the money or the ability, you go help the dog! Your in rescue NOW! And it is not about you anymore, It’s all about the dog! So get out there and help that dog (but, please read this first, so you know how).
The very first thing you need to realize, is that these dogs are scared, confused and depressed. Their entire world as they know it has turned upside down! I can not stress this enough. These dogs are under a lot of stress. You are not going to see the dogs true personality. They just lost their home, their family, they may be neglected and abused, hungry, or hurt. They are in a strange place, confinded and they are scared and stressed. These dogs need understanding and gentle handling. You must however, protect yourself at all times! The dog has enough issues at this point and being labeled a biter is something that the dog does not need and you can prevent it from happening. Remember, you are here to protect that dog, not cause more harm. Positioning yourself in such a way as to allow the dog to bite you or provoking a bite, regardless if you meanrt to or not, is unacceptable.
Why do we rescue? Simply put, because the dogs need our help. The big picture is; every year, four million dogs are murdered, because they do not have a home. No other reason, but they are homeless. Now, having said that, millions of other dogs are purposely murdered each year in labs across the US. Here dogs are tortured, starved, experimented upon and out right killed in the name of product testing and medical research. Sadly, it is very hard to help those dogs as the labs keep tight reign on themselves and do not allow information about what they do to become public.
So, with four million dogs murdered each year why even try to save any? It’s obvious that no matter how hard we try, we won’t even make a dent in the numbers. That is absolutely correct! We won’t, but here is a story that accurately explains why we become so dedicated to rescuing dogs.
It was a beautiful summer day, the sky was an amazing shade of bright blue. Big puffy cotton white clouds floated by over head. This was the stuff of our childhood dreams, the beach was a brilliant shade of white. The water dazzling shade of turquoise, gently lapping the white sandy beach. Littering the beach were tiny star fish. You could barely walk on the beach without stepping on the star fish. Walking along the beach was a man. While he was walking he was picking up star fish, as many as he could hold and was gently tossing them back into the ocean. Further down the beach was another man standing watching the first man tossing the star fish. As the man tossing the star fish approached, the other man said; “aren’t you wasting your time? With all the thousands of star fish laying on this beach, what difference is it going to make, by throwing back a few hundred star fish into the ocean?” the Man looked down and picked up a star fish. He held it and looked at it, then he looked at the other and said “it makes all the difference in the world for this star fish”, and he proceeded to toss it into the ocean. Then he continued walking along the beach tossing more star fish into the ocean.
That story sums up why we are in rescue, to make a world of difference to the dogs we can save, to mourn the loss of those we can not and to work hard to prevent the same from happening in the future. As rescuer’s we shed a lot of tears for those we can not save and it is a constant reminder that we need to work harder to prevent more dogs from being unwanted in the future. Be fore warned your soul will be torn to shreds working in rescue, you will shed a lot of tears and people will think you are crazy, but there is nothing like the feeling you get when you find that perfect home for a deserving dog. You will find that dogs appreciate everything you do for them and they will show it.
The best way to get into dog rescue is to ease yourself into it a little at a time. This allows you to get an understanding of what it is like and what is required. Most of all, it allows you to test the waters and see if you like rescuing dogs, after all this is not for everyone.
My suggestion is to start with transporting dogs, this is a very important job and there are never enough quality people available. While this sounds like an easy boring job, it isn’t by any means. The first thing you need to do, is ‘Google or Yahoo” your favorite breed and the word “rescue” and your state. Example: “Dachshund rescue NJ”. Then you contact the rescue and explain that you want to help transport dogs. If you already have friends rescuing, it should be easier getting started. You will probably be put on a contact list and then you wait. It’s funny, the way rescue transports work is like everyone is a super hero. Everyone goes about their business, and daily life, you have no idea who they are…until! The email or phone call and then everyone goes into rescue mode and the super heroes show up. You will get an email saying on a certain date, a dog from Georgia is going to a forever home in Maine. The travel route will be laid out by the travel coordinator.
The coordinator is the boss of the transport, they are the one’s responsible for that dog getting to it’s destination! The travel route will be broken down in to approximately 1 hour driving blocks with 15 minutes to transfer the dog and to make sure the dog has water and a potty break. Essentially this is a relay race across the county with a dog instead of a baton and there is NO dropping the “baton”.
You sign up for the date and time that you can drive. Then you go to the prearranged meeting area and you wait for the dog to come to you. You secure the paperwork and the dogs belongings and then you secure the dog, you water him and let him go potty, then it’s off to the next meeting point. You give the paperwork over to your relief, you give the dogs belongings over and then you hand the dog over, so they can water and let him go potty. When you receive the dog, you call the transport coordinator and when you transfer the dog, you call the transport coordinator. When you call the transport coordinator, you give a quick report of the status of the dog and if there were any problems. Then you go back home and get reabsorbed into your daily life until the next time.
You must remember that these dogs are stressed, confused and scared. You need to be prepared and treat the dogs as gentle as possible. DO NOT bring your dogs on a transport! DO NOT bring your dogs on a transport! Here is what not to do! I was on a mixed breed transport. We were moving 3 pit bulls from a high kill shelter down south to a foster home up north. The dogs were in the middle of their second day of transport. I had myself and a helper (always try to have two people in a vehicle). We arrived and met the driver of the next leg. She was a tiny older lady that stood 5 foot tall in a subcompact car. There is nothing wrong with being a petite woman in rescue, most of the rescuer’s are women and they do an excellent job. This lady was doing the transport for the first time, no helper, tiny car, 3 mid sized dogs and the ultimate no no! She decided it was a great idea to bring along her 3 unsocialized chihuahua’s! “Are you kidding me?” So we meet, I give her the paperwork, the dogs belonging (which weren’t much, coming from a shelter). The lady then proceeds to tell me she is afraid of pit bulls and if she had known these were pit bulls, she would not have agreed to transport. The transport schedule had descriptions of the dogs and pictures, this way people can make a conscious decision on weather they can do the transport. When you are on location, it is to late to decide you can’t continue the transport. The lady had to take the dogs, because I could not drive a second leg. She packed up the dog’s stuff and then she put the 3 pits into her car and had her 3 chihuahua’s yapping. I called the coordinator and reported what had happened.
The next segment of this blog will contain the things you need to carry with you when you transport dogs.